Need more information
about our company, or on the items we sell?
Please choose your question from the
lists below:
Seacorals was created in 2001 and is family owned and
operated. We pride ourselves on offering the finest customer service, support,
and information while offering below retail prices. With a combined 22 years of
fish keeping experience and expertise, we offer tried & true facts & advice that
come from actual use and hands on knowledge.
We carry unique products such as our Ocean Aquaria Line,
Caribbean Arts Decor, and beautiful natural dyed coral. We offer the full line
of Current USA, Blue Ribbon, Coralife, and many other well known aquarium manufacturers. We only
sell the highest rated aquarium equipment available and will not recommend a sub
par item based on price!
Most importantly, we offer stability. As a well known
aquarium retailer and an Internet & eBay (Seacoral11) selling
veteran, you can feel secure knowing that we will be around if you run into a
warranty issue, or need some information a year down the road. The internet is
an ever-changing place, and this security is worth everything.
Our returns & mailing address:
Sea Corals & Asc-Designs LLC
PO Box 3
Lake Junaluska, NC 28745 Back
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Our Toll Free Phone Number is (866) 392-5646. Hours of
availability are 11am to 7pm Monday thru Friday, EST.
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You can email our customer service by writing to
Service@Seacorals.com. Our
technical support can be reached at
Technical@Seacorals.com.
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We accept all Major Credit Cards including Visa,
MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club & Discover. We also accept checks,
Paypal, & money orders.
When sending in a check or money order, please send
your order # and complete mailing information. Please allow 7-10 days for
all checks to clear before shipment.
We can accept Paypal. If you choose Paypal as your payment
option, please make sure to use a valid Paypal email address. Back to
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We can ship via UPS or USPS. Ground, 3 Day air, & 2 day
air are available and you can choose the choice that best fits your needs upon
checkout.
Real Coral requires extreme packaging to assure its
unbroken arrival. Each individual piece is wrapped in packing paper, and
then packed with cushioning material. It is then put in a oversized box. This procedure guarantees that each piece will arrive in excellent
shape.
Aquarium supplies and artificial corals are also shipped
with the highest packing standards and full insurance.
Artificial corals & aquarium supplies are usually shipped
within 48 business hours of the placement of the order. If an item is out of
stock, or a delay of more then 10 days is expected, an email will be sent
giving an ETA. Because we want to
secure the best possible piece based on the specifications you provide, our
natural coral pieces will need to be processed for aquarium use before shipping.
This process takes a minimum of 14 business days, and we will E-mail you
letting you know if an extended wait is expected.
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Our shipping rates are based on actual weight of the item. Shipping rates will be calculated
based upon the total weight of your items when you checkout. All orders outside
of USA & Canada will have shipping added on after the sale. You will be
given a total before you commit to the sale upon checkout. If you need an exact price on
shipping costs, please do not hesitate to email us at
Service@Seacorals.com.
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Each piece of coral is guaranteed to arrive as
ordered, with correct shape, color, and size. If you are unsatisfied with your
piece, we offer a 30 day exchange policy. Just send your piece back and we will
credit your account towards the purchase of any item in our store.
Electronics, filters, and other aquarium supplies all
carry full manufacturers warranty. All items are guaranteed to arrive in new in
box condition, and be fully functional as described. If you receive a defective
item or one becomes defective while under warranty, please
E-mail us for an RMA number and
further assistance. All items damaged in shipping need to be reported within 72
hours of delivery to be eligible for return. Back to top
Please contact us at
Service@Seacorals.com before sending
any items back to us. We will need to issue you an RMA. Any items returned
without an RMA will be sent back at the senders expense.
All items that arrive damaged in shipping carry full
insurance and will be replaced. A shipping label will be provided for the
damaged item to be returned and the item will be replaced upon receipt of the
damaged item.
Natural Coral & Natural Aquarium decor can be returned for store credit
within 10 days of delivery. All artificial decor must be returned in new
condition to qualify for credit and must be returned within 7 days of delivery. Aquarium supplies and electronics must be returned in
unopened, new condition within 7 days of delivery. A 10% restocking fee will apply to all non-defective
returned items. Shipping and handling fees are non-refundable.
Due to the fragile nature of Aquarium Lights,
Chillers, and filters, these items can only be returned if defective once
shipped.
Seacorals accepts no liability for return shipping for
non-defective items. Please contact us if you have any other questions regarding
our return and exchange policies.
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All Items over 150lbs will be subject to an oversized
shipping rate increase. All orders over 150lbs will have additional shipping
added to the total upon completion of shipping. For exact quotes on heavy items,
please email us at service@seacorals.com
.
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Sea Corals, and our parent company, ASC Designs, has a
strict no share policy regarding all information you share with our company. All
credit card information comes over a secure server and is destroyed within 30
days of the completion of the order. Other personal information such as
addresses & phone numbers are kept on file only so we can keep track of your
order. This information is never shared.
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Need to search for something on our site. Please click
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sent to our search page. Back to top
Need an alphabetical list of the products on our site.
Please click HERE
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Don't worry, we can get you there. Just click
HERE for a
direct route to our Lighting and Furniture store.
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Both natural and artificial coral comes ready to go into
an aquarium, just rinse the coral under tap water to remove any dust or dirt it
may have picked up in shipping. Bases can be buried in your substrate for a
natural look and added stability. Back to top
Our dyed coral has been used in aquariums for over 30
years and has proven to be safe in even the most delicate environments. The
unique dye used on this coral is extremely bright, yet absolutely non-toxic to
aquatic environments. Coral eating fish (parrotfish, etc.) have been known to
eat the dyed coral with no ill effects. Mini-reef and even nano-reef tanks are
excellent candidates for dyed coral and even delicate inverts are safe.
The dye has the added benefit of not sealing the coral.
This means that you will still see all the original detail such as polyp holes
and small ridges and bumps. Back to top
Please use this chart for hints on coral selection.
|
Type of Inhabitant |
Example |
Best coral types |
| |
|
|
|
Top Dwelling / Perching Species |
Gouramis, Archer Fish, Lionfish, Frogfish |
Tall Brown Stem, Staghorn, Plate, Sea Fans &
Whips |
|
Middle Dwelling Species, Fast Swimmers |
Grammas, Damsel and Clownfish, Angels, Butterflyfish, African Cichlids |
Compact pieces of Brown Stem, Cats Paw, Slipper, Staghorn, Finger, Branch,
Sea whips & fans. |
|
Middle Dwelling Species, Slow Swimmers |
Hawkfish, Lionfish, Large Cichlids, Puffers,
Batfish |
Almost any coral type |
|
Bottom Dwelling Species, Fast Swimmers |
Groupers, Grammas, Damsels, Rockfish, Eels, Tetras |
Brown stem, Cats Paw, Slipper, Plate, Finger, Birds Nest |
|
Bottom Dwelling Species, Slow Swimmers |
Blennies, Gobies, Seahorses, Loaches, Catfish |
Brown Stem, Cats Paw, Slipper, Finger, Lettuce,
Birds Nest |
|
Crustaceans |
Lobsters, Crabs, Shrimp |
Plate, Slipper, Brown Stem, Cats Paw |
|
Low PH Fish <freshwater only> |
Discus, Cardinal Tetras, delicate Catfish
|
Artificial Corals, preferably softer corals with
no points or sharp edges. |
|
Delicate Fish and constant swim animals |
Oranda and Bubbleye Goldfish, Discus, Sharks |
Artificial coral is the only choice for delicate animals. Coral is not
recommended in a shark tank due to the swimming space it takes up.
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With proper care, our dyed coral will keep its stunning
color for 3-5 years. Coral under heavy light, or that
requires more frequent cleanings will fade faster but should still give you many
years of color. Faded coral can be sent back to use to be repainted for a
nominal charge. Need more information on getting your coral re-dyed? Please
contact us for more information. Back to top
Algae, micro-bacteria, and other organisms will grow and
flourish on both dyed and natural coral. Both types can be easily cleaned with a
light bleach solution. Add 1/4 of a cup of bleach to an almost filled 5 gallon
bucket. Soak the coral overnight and remove. Dump the water in the bucket and
refill with clean tap water. Use a quality water conditioner such as Prime or
Amquel, and add 4 times the normal dosage to the bucket. Spray down the coral
and let it soak in the conditioned water for a few hours. It should now be ready
to go into the tank. If you are unsure, or if you can still smell bleach or
chlorine, just refill the bucket again with tap water and add 4 times the
conditioner and re-soak. Back to top
Natural coral is safe in a freshwater aquarium, although
some maintenance is required. Coral in a freshwater aquarium will slowly raise
the PH of your tank. The rate this occurs depends on the size of your tank and
how much coral you have. Monitoring of your PH will allow you to easily keep
this under control. Some fish, such as African Cichlids, like a high PH and
adding coral is beneficial to their survival. Coral can also help cure a tank
with a high organic load and a low PH. Another added bonus for freshwater is the
trace elements that coral leaches out. Back to
top
An excellent choice of decor for a saltwater tank. Adds a
natural shape your fish will recognize and enjoy. The trace elements that are
released are a bonus to your inhabitants. Natural hiding places abound, and your
saltwater fish will recognize these natural homes and show brighter, happy
colors. Back to top
An excellent way to add some natural beauty without having
to take care of yet another living thing. Natural coral fits into the
environment flawlessly. Great for seahorses as a place for them to wrap around.
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Dyed coral is safe in a freshwater aquarium, although some
maintenance is required. Coral in a freshwater aquarium will slowly raise the PH
of your tank. The rate this occurs depends on the size of your tank and how much
coral you have. The dye will slow this process down as compared to Un-dyed
Coral.
Monitoring of your PH will allow you to easily keep this
under control. Some fish, such as African Cichlids, like a high PH and adding
coral is beneficial to their survival. Coral can also help cure a tank with a
high organic load that causes low PH (Oscar tanks especially). Another added
bonus for freshwater is the trace elements that coral leaches out.
Back to top
An excellent choice of decor for a saltwater tank. Adds a
natural shape your fish will recognize and enjoy. The trace elements that are
released are a bonus to your inhabitants. Natural hiding places abound, and your
saltwater fish will recognize these natural homes and show brighter, happy
colors. Speaking of brighter colors, the brilliant color of our dyed coral
really makes a drab aquarium look beautiful.
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An excellent way to add some natural beauty without having
to take care of yet another living thing. Dyed coral adds brilliant color and a
new, natural place for your fish to go. Great for seahorses as a place for them
to wrap around. Also becomes a favored cleaning spot for cleaner shrimp over a
piece of rock. Dyed coral is perfectly safe for even the most delicate
environment. Back to top
We can order custom pieces of coral, we only need you to
tell us what you want. From extra large sizes of our coral, to unique color
patterns and mixes. Please E-mail
us your needs and we will get back to you with a quote.
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Yes, we offer a full exchange policy on any piece of coral
we send. Please note that every piece of coral does look different, and we will
do our best to match up your piece. If you are unhappy with your piece, please
E-mail us for return information.
As soon as we receive the piece, we will ship out your new piece, or we can give
you credit towards anything else in our store minus a 10% restocking fee.
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Need help on deciding which type of filter would be best
for your aquarium, or do you just need some insight on how a filter works on an
aquarium? Please use our guide below for basic filter information, or you can
E-mail us for specific filter
information.
 |
Canister
filters are excellent filters for the majority of aquariums. Many offer the
ability to interchange your filtration media, allowing complete
customization of your aquariums filtration needs.
They work by bringing water out of the aquarium and into a pressurized
"canister". The water is either pushed or pulled through multiple layers of
filtration and then returned to the aquarium. This efficient design means
less water gets unfiltered due to bypass. They are also useful in powering a
UV sterilizer or other accessory. The main downfall of canister
filters is low biological activity (not including Eheim wet/dry canisters).
Since the units have to be cleaned, and most of your filtration media is
changed regularly, most bacteria is periodically purged from them.
Freshwater - Canister filters are perfect for
freshwater aquariums. On a small to medium aquarium, one canister such as
the Magnum series should be all the filtration needed. On larger
aquariums, a modular canister system such as the lifeguard would be
excellent and provide crystal clear water.
Saltwater - Canisters make a great part of a
saltwater filter system, but a secondary biological unit is usually
required. Without a good biological bed filter, a saltwater aquarium will
frequently experience high nitrite and ammonia problems, and a much shorter
inhabitant life expectancy. Adding an Undergravel or bio-wheel filter will
fulfill this necessity. Canisters are also excellent as a secondary filter
and spot cleaner on a wet/dry. The exception to this rule is the Eheim
Wet/Dry Canister filters that are excellent as a complete filtration
solution for marine aquariums. Mini-Reef - Canisters work great with mini-reef
systems, but care is needed in picking the chemical media as some will leech
out needed trace elements. The Eheim wet/dry filters are excellent for use
in a small to medium sized reef aquarium. Standard canister filters are
better for spot cleaning or specialized media containment.
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Hang on tank filters offer a good compromise
between economical operation and high grade filtration. They work
similar in fashion to canister filters but are usually not
pressurized (the HOT magnum is a canister filter and is
pressurized). Water is pumped into a box on the back of the tank and
then allowed to run through a cartridge, or in the Magnum, forced
through a set of media. The water is then returned to the aquarium.
As a low cost alternative for canister and wet/dry filters, they do
have limitations. Water by-pass can (and does) occur with cartridge
filters, and the media selection that can be used is fairly low.
Flow rates are low and highly variable depending on how clean the
system is. On a high note, hang on tank filters are highly
versatile, and very easy to maintain.
Freshwater - Perfect as a low cost filter for freshwater. All
but the Skilter would make an excellent choice. The Emperor series
is an excellent filtration system for small to medium freshwater
tanks and offers complete mechanical, chemical, and even biological
filtration.
Saltwater - Hang on back filters are great as part of a
complete filter system. The emperor is a decent filter for a small
to medium saltwater aquarium. Other hang on tank filters are not as
efficient and low bio-activity combined with water by-pass could be
costly in aquarium life. Combined with a proper bio-active filter
such as a wet/dry, sand filter, or Undergravel, a hang on tank
filter can become a valuable addition.
Mini-Reef - Good as a spot filter or secondary filter unit,
hang on tank filters do not offer the flexibility needed for a true
mini-reef. Not recommended.
|
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Wet/dry
filters are some of the highest grade filters available on the
market today. Working on the same principal as an undergravel
filter, water is passed across colonies of bacteria, which breakdown
harmful ammonia and nitrite. Water is then put into a sump area. The
addition of a sump to an aquarium allows you to place high-end
protein skimmers, UV sterilizers, and much more to your tank easily.
A wet/dry filter is an absolute must for delicate fish in fresh or
saltwater. It is recommended that a minimum of gravel be used in a
wet/dry filter aquarium. A thick layer of gravel will hold more dirt
and require more maintenance. A properly setup aquarium with a
wet/dry has very low maintenance and high inhabitant life
expectancy.
Freshwater - At the top of the chain for freshwater is a
wet/dry. Healthy fish, cleaner tanks, and more time between
cleanings are what this filter will offer the average freshwater
aquarium. Less gravel means few gravel cleanings. Not recommended
for very dirty fish, such as Oscars because of the high-organic
content they release.
Saltwater - Excellent for saltwater as well. Fish will
display more natural, vivid colors and stay healthier. Less gravel,
and no Undergravel to hold dirt. A good carbon filter for spot
cleaning is helpful. Less water changes in saltwater means less
maintenance and less shock to your inhabitants.
Mini-Reef - Good with proper care, more useful for the
sump it creates than for filtration in a proper mini-reef. Most bio
activity should be found in your live rock. A wet/dry can be an
integral part of a mini-reef system when used correctly. A protein
skimmer in the sump for a mini-reef is a must, as is a good
de-nitrification system. With these items in place, water chemistry
can be stable which will help your live coral to grow and thrive.
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An excellent addition to any
saltwater aquarium. Denitrators are split off of a sump or Powerhead pump
and have water slowly trickle through a bio-matrix. Bacteria remove the
Nitrates directly from the water as a food source. Essential part of any
mini-reef or high-end saltwater aquarium. Denitrators work very slowly,
water is set by drips per minute. Because of this, a denitrator should be
part of a system fairly early on, but after the new tank "cycle". If a
denitrator is used during this new tank period (usually anywhere from 1-6
weeks), the tank may not cycle correctly, and this will cause problems with
water chemistry in the future. Added after a cycle, denitrators will keep
nitrates low. This means less water changes, less overall maintenance and
healthier inhabitants. Nitrates are poisonous to most live corals and
inverts and, if they get high enough, can be fatal to many fish.
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Reverse osmosis filters are attached to a tap
water system in your home. The R/O filter cleans your tap water, removing most
harmful metals, toxins and chemicals from your water, giving you crystal clear,
lab grade water. Not only is the water that an R/O produces perfect for drinking
water, but also as a basis for the atmosphere your fish will live in.
R/O water used in a freshwater environment
can be beneficial, but there are downsides. The water that an R/O produces is
almost truly pure. This means that there are no trace elements, salts, etc.
These trace amounts of minerals and salts are needed for healthy fish and will
need to be added to the water before use. Fish that are kept in R/O water that
does not have the needed added elements will be more prone to disease and sudden
unexplained deaths. The good news is that almost all pet stores carry
inexpensive bottled elements that can be added. When freshwater fish are kept in
R/O water with the added elements, life expectancy goes up, water changes are
needed slightly less frequently, and fish become more disease resistant. This
will also sometimes help picky eating fish regain their appetite.
R/O water in a salt or reef environment
carries the same penalties as above, but the fix is much more simple. When you
do your normal water changes, you are adding trace elements into the R/O water
when you mix the salt in. Doing normal, scheduled water changes on your aquarium
will continually replenish the trace elements that your inhabitants leach out.
In a reef environment, adding the trace elements back into the water, especially
calcium, iodine, strontium, molybdenum and other required elements are a must.
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A protein skimmer in freshwater is useless.
Protein skimming requires saltwater to allow the foaming process to occur.
Brackish water aquariums will obtain some success from a protein skimmer
depending on how high the specific gravity of the water . If the specific
gravity is below 1.015, a protein skimmer will not work well.
In a saltwater, fish only tank, a protein
skimmer is a huge bonus. In the simplest forms, a protein skimmer pulls organic
proteins, such as fish urine, directly out of the water. Unlike carbon, where
the protein is caught but still in the stream of water, protein skimming removes
this protein from the water and places it in a collection cup so that it can be
removed from the aquarium. Many hobbyists ONLY use protein skimming for
filtration, with live rock as the basis for their bacteria bed. Although this
works well in a reef environment, the addition of a wet/dry or other bio-bed
filter is a better choice for a fish only tank. A protein skimmer will always
give a tank healthier fish and should never be left out of a well planned
system.
In a reef environment, a protein skimmer is a
must. Coral will be healthier, happier and fuller than ever with a protein
skimming unit. Live rock will grow polyps faster, and crustaceans will grow and
shed faster. This may be the single most important unit to consider when setting
up a reef.
Please note that during the cycle period of a
saltwater fish tank (also known as New Tank Syndrome) a protein skimmer should
be turned off to allow the correct growth of bacteria.
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top
An ultraviolet sterilizer is a tube with a UV
bulb in the center. Water is passed either directly across the bulb, or across a
quartz sleeve that protects the bulb. Disease causing bacteria, viruses, algae,
fungi, and protozoa are all found in not only aquarium water, but also in tap
water. UV destroys or disables these different pathogens by exposing them to a
high dose of ultraviolet radiation.
Very beneficial in a freshwater tank for
breeding fish. A UV sterilizer can help keep fungi off of eggs and baby fish. It
helps the stressed mother from becoming stricken with disease in her weakened
state.
In a saltwater and reef type environment, UV
sterilization makes sense, especially considering the low cost when compared to
the price of livestock. A few fish protected from disease usually pays for the
UV system.
Please remember that complete sterilization
of an aquarium is neither desirable or possible. Some bacteria are needed to
break down ammonia, others are beneficial to your fish or coral. In a reef
environment, UV sterilization can leach out some trace elements needed by your
coral. Trace elements and additives should be added as needed, and the UV
sterilizer should be turned off for a few hours after adding these chemicals.
Water movement is extremely important in
determining the size of your UV. A rough scale to follow is 10-15 gallons per
hour per watt of UV light in a fishtank, 15-25 gallons per hour per watt in a
pond.
Example: A 15 watt UV sterilizer should have
a flow rate between 150-225 GPH in a fishtank and 225-375 GPH in a pond.
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Another way to remove pathogens from your
aquarium water is to introduce an ozone generator into the system. It oxidizes
not only living pathogens, but organic pollutants. A benefit of ozone is that it
systematically reduces dissolved organic compounds in the water stream. This has
the effect of boosting the natural filtration of your substrate and bio-bed
filters. Ozone will increase the ability of protein skimmers foam production.
This translates to an overall filtration system increase and sterilization.
Ozone gas is produced within the generator by
a small spark that is created within a controlled chamber of air. High humidity
is detrimental to an ozone generator and an air drier may be needed.
Ozone does have some detrimental side effects
and these must be carefully monitored. Ozone gas is highly corrosive, especially
towards plastics and rubber, and all items that come in contact with ozone must
be ozone safe. Ozone is usually injected through a protein skimming unit. The
tubing used and the skimmer itself must be approved for ozone use, and a carbon
filter on the top of the protein skimmer is recommended to strip off residual
ozone escaping from the water. Ozone should not be allowed to enter your
aquarium as it can kill almost any fish or invert, so a carbon filter is
recommended in-line of the return water. Ozone is also unsafe for a human to
breathe.
Picking the correct generator is fairly easy.
1Mg/h per gallon is sufficient. Going larger than this formula is easily
correctable, just dial in a lower number. Back to top
Saltwater Mini / Nano / Micro reefs, and freshwater tanks
with live plants require specialized lighting for the health of your
inhabitants. The following information should provide insight on the most common
lighting issues. Please note that WPG means Watts Per Gallon
|
Freshwater Fish Tank |
The most inexpensive lighting system
will usually work well enough to illuminate your tank and pets. The downfall
is that you miss out on the enhanced colors and textures that a high-grade
lighting system will show. Neon tetras are a perfect example. They dimly
glow under a standard aquarium fluorescent bulb. In comparison, they almost
appear to have a neon bulb on their side when viewed under a PowerCompact
lighting system with actinic.
Conclusion - Any light will
work, but for the best colors, algae and live plant growth, and overall tank
appearance, a 1-2 watt per gallon system should be used that includes at
least some actinic spectrum.
|
|
Freshwater Live Plant Tank |
A live freshwater plant aquarium
requires a considerable amount of light so that the plants can properly
synthesize chlorophyll. Without this light, live plants will slowly yellow
and dye. A good rule to follow is 2-3 Watts Per Gallon
for average height aquariums (under 24" in height) and 3-4 WPG for tall
tanks (25" to 36" in height). Taller tanks than 36" may have special
lighting requirements, please E-Mail
us regarding any questions on tall tank lighting.
Conclusion - 2-4 WPG is
essential for a tank of this type. Sun and actinic bulbs are the most common
bulbs used in this type of environment. A full spectrum, standard aquarium
bulb (pink type) should be put in as well for good color reproduction. Metal
halide works well, has the added bonus of taking up a small space yet
putting out a large amount of watts, but can overheat your tank.
Powercompacts or HO fluorescents are usually the best way to go.
|
|
Saltwater Fish Tank |
For fish only saltwater aquariums,
lighting is not as important, but can easily effect the way a tank looks,
and how well it stands out in a room. 1 WPG is usually a good start and will
illuminate the tank sufficiently. Try to pick out a spectrum that will
highlight the primary colors of your fish and decor. If you have a large
amount of blue in your aquarium, try to pick out a system with Actinic or
low spectrum output. Reds and Oranges look better in a high spectrum, Sun or
Grow-lux bulb.
Conclusion - A commonly
overlooked piece of equipment in a saltwater aquarium system. Although not
necessary for many creatures, a good system will enhance the colors of the
already bright shades many marine fish possess. In addition, better lighting
enhances algae and micro-biological growths that are beneficial to a healthy
environment. A good HO system would be a huge upgrade over the standard 1-2
bulb systems many tanks come with standard.
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|
Saltwater System - Partial Reef |
Ahh, the quasi-reef.
The hardest tank to successfully keep and maintain. A quasi-reef is a tank
that starts out fish only. Sits for a year or two in this mode, and then has
corals, anemones, or other reef inhabitants added to it. Usually both the
lighting system and the filtration system is for a fish only tank. So an
upgrade is needed. The best way to figure out lighting for this type of
aquarium is to figure out which way the tank is going. If the tank is being
converted over into a true reef tank, then the answer is simple, get reef
quality lights. If the tank is going to have mainly fish and just the
occasional reef inhabitant ( a hardy coral such as a green star polyp
perhaps ), then 1-2 watts per gallon should do the trick. Spectrum is tricky
and should be based upon what animals you plan on keeping.
Conclusion - The largest hurdle to overcome on
this tank type is sticking to the plan. If you decide that your fishtank is
becoming boring, but you do not want to completely retrofit your tank to
support a reef system, make sure you decide on exactly what type of animals
you plan on keeping, and get the best possible light based on that. If you
stick to the plan, and follow some basic guidelines, your tank will handle
the new additions flawlessly and add that new dimension your aquarium
needed.
|
|
Saltwater Reef System |
For a Reef environment, lighting can
easily mean the difference between success and failure. Almost all live
coral, anemones, and thousands of other reef inhabitants have a living algae
inside of them, and require a symbiotic relationship with this algae. The
algae helps coral to convert the food they ingest into a useable form. If
the algae dies, your coral will basically starve to death. A good rule of
thumb with Reefs is a minimum of 3-4 WPG 8-10 hours per day. More than 8-10
hours may allow an over-growth of hair and slime algaes. Tanks taller than
30" should go to a 4-5 WPG table.
Spectrum in a reef aquarium is more
complex than in other tanks and needs to be carefully thought out. Having
200 watts of Sun bulbs on a 55 gallon would add enough light, but the light
would not be fully useable by the algae inside the coral because of the
spectrum. Low-end spectral light is usually added to the aquarium with the
addition of Actinic fluorescent bulbs. A good sun or 10,000k bulb will
add brightness and high end spectrum lighting. There are also 50/50 bulbs
that add both low and high spectrum. A good balance is necessary for the
optimum health of your corals.
Conclusion - 3-5 watts per gallon is a must for
a proper reef environment. Spectrum should be determined based on what
creatures you plan on keeping, but figure for a good balance of high, mid,
and low spectrum lights. Metal Halide is used more than any other type on a
reef tank, yet its downfalls ( high heat, ventilation issues, burns ) and
high cost make fluorescents a more workable solution. Powercompacts rule the
fluorescent lighting industry right now, and they should be the first place
you check.
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There is one more item of concern regarding lights that we
receive numerous questions about. "How long should the light be left on".
The simple answer is 8-10 hours. Unfortunately the simple
answer is not always the best one. The easiest way to tell is by watching your
algae growth. If the algae is growing faster than you or your snails, plecos,
and angelfish can remove it, cut back on the light. If your algae growth is
almost at a standstill, add another hour of light and wait a week. Keep trying
till you get a fairly slow, regular algae growth.
A timer for your lights is an absolute must have. It has
been proven that fish with a regular light cycle will be healthier and happier,
show better colors, and eat more often. Back to top
Heaters are an integral part of the health of
your aquarium inhabitants. A common misconception among aquarium hobbyist is
that a heater is only there to keep your water above a certain temperature. This
is of course true, but a heater's primary purpose is to keep your aquarium
temperature stable. Aquarium temperature flux is the second most common way that
fish get diseases. White Spot Disease (Ich) is a parasitic infection that most
fish carry, in a dormant form. When a fish becomes stressed, Ich attacks the
fish and uses its body as a breeding platform for new Ich spores. It only takes
2 degrees of flux per day for the average freshwater fish to become stressed. So
you can see how important water temperature stability can be. A heater allows
you to dial in a temperature that is 1 degree warmer than the highest
temperature your tank becomes each day. By doing this, your tank never gets
warmer than where the heater keeps it at, and this means no flux in temperature.
Chillers do the same as a heater, just in the
opposite fashion. High-end pumps and lights on the market today, for a
fish or reef tank can easily grow too warm for optimum living conditions. A
chiller can chill your water substantially (some down to 55 degrees). For
specialty aquariums dealing with cool or cold water species (goldfish, many
types of saltwater inhabitants.), a chiller is considered a must. Most
importantly on larger reef systems with Metal Halide lighting.
Back to top
Aquarium pumps are an integral part of almost
any aquarium. i.e. Air pumps for running a protein skimmer unit, ozonizer, or
Undergravel filter, and water pumps for running your wet/dry or UV sterilizer
Air pumps come in almost all shapes and
sizes, and we carry sizes that run from 1 single 2.5 gallon tank, to pumps that
would push over 50 2.5 gallon tanks. Although we only show a few on our website,
please feel free to E-mail us if you
wish to inquire about a specialty pump.
Water pumps come in hundreds of sizes, and we
carry a good portion of them. Water pumps can, and will add heat to an aquarium.
Size does matter, and having the largest pump is usually not the best idea.
Always make sure to balance your flow rate needs with the heat of your tank. For
example, a Little Giant 2-MD-SC will add up to three degrees to the average 55
gallon aquarium. This heat can be offset somewhat by making sure there is
sufficient water movement at the surface of the aquarium. Water movement can be
the difference of up to two degrees. Back to top
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