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Coral

Other Items

  • Filter Type Faqs.

Canister - Hang on Tank - Wet/Dry - Denitrators - Protein Skimmers - Ozone Generators - Reverse Osmosis - UV Sterilizers

  • Lighting Faqs.

Freshwater - Freshwater Live Plants - Saltwater - Partial Reef - Full Reef

Company Information

Seacorals was created in 2001 and is family owned and operated. We pride ourselves on offering the finest customer service, support, and information while offering below retail prices. With a combined 22 years of fish keeping experience and expertise, we offer tried & true facts & advice that come from actual use and hands on knowledge.

We carry unique products such as our Ocean Aquaria Line, Caribbean Arts Decor, and beautiful natural dyed coral. We offer the full line of Current USA, Blue Ribbon, Coralife, and many other well known aquarium manufacturers. We only sell the highest rated aquarium equipment available and will not recommend a sub par item based on price!

Most importantly, we offer stability. As a well known aquarium retailer and an Internet & eBay (Seacoral11) selling veteran, you can feel secure knowing that we will be around if you run into a warranty issue, or need some information a year down the road. The internet is an ever-changing place, and this security is worth everything.

Our returns & mailing address:

Sea Corals  & Asc-Designs LLC
PO Box 3
Lake Junaluska, NC 28745
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Our Toll Free Phone Number is (866) 392-5646. Hours of availability are 11am to 7pm Monday thru Friday, EST.  Back to top

You can email our customer service by writing to Service@Seacorals.com. Our technical support can be reached at Technical@Seacorals.com.  Back to top

We accept all Major Credit Cards including Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club & Discover. We also accept checks, Paypal, & money orders.

When sending in a check or money order, please send your order # and complete mailing information. Please allow 7-10 days for all checks to clear before shipment.

We can accept Paypal. If you choose Paypal as your payment option, please make sure to use a valid Paypal email address.  Back to top

We can ship via UPS or USPS. Ground, 3 Day air, & 2 day air are available and you can choose the choice that best fits your needs upon checkout.

Real Coral requires extreme packaging to assure its unbroken arrival.  Each individual piece is wrapped in packing paper, and then packed with cushioning material. It is then put in a oversized box. This procedure guarantees that each piece will arrive in excellent shape.

Aquarium supplies and artificial corals are also shipped with the highest packing standards and full insurance.

Artificial corals & aquarium supplies are usually shipped within 48 business hours of the placement of the order. If an item is out of stock, or a delay of more then 10 days is expected,  an email will be sent giving an ETA. Because we want to secure the best possible piece based on the specifications you provide, our natural coral pieces will need to be processed for aquarium use before shipping. This process takes a minimum of 14 business days, and we will E-mail you letting you know if an extended wait is expected. Back to top

Our shipping rates are based on actual weight of the item. Shipping rates will be calculated based upon the total weight of your items when you checkout. All orders outside of USA & Canada will have shipping added on after the sale. You will be given a total before you commit to the sale upon checkout. If you need an exact price on shipping costs, please do not hesitate to email us at Service@Seacorals.comBack to top

Each piece of coral is guaranteed to arrive as ordered, with correct shape, color, and size. If you are unsatisfied with your piece, we offer a 30 day exchange policy. Just send your piece back and we will credit your account towards the purchase of any item in our store.

Electronics, filters, and other aquarium supplies all carry full manufacturers warranty. All items are guaranteed to arrive in new in box condition, and be fully functional as described. If you receive a defective item or one becomes defective while under warranty, please E-mail us for an RMA number and further assistance. All items damaged in shipping need to be reported within 72 hours of delivery to be eligible for return. Back to top

Please contact us at Service@Seacorals.com before sending any items back to us. We will need to issue you an RMA. Any items returned without an RMA will be sent back at the senders expense.

All items that arrive damaged in shipping carry full insurance and will be replaced. A shipping label will be provided for the damaged item to be returned and the item will be replaced upon receipt of the damaged item.

Natural Coral & Natural Aquarium decor can be returned for store credit within 10 days of delivery. All artificial decor must be returned in new condition to qualify for credit and must be returned within 7 days of delivery. Aquarium supplies and electronics must be returned in unopened, new condition within 7 days of delivery. A 10% restocking fee will apply to all non-defective returned items. Shipping and handling fees are non-refundable.

Due to the fragile nature of  Aquarium Lights, Chillers, and filters, these items can only be returned if defective once shipped.

Seacorals accepts no liability for return shipping for non-defective items. Please contact us if you have any other questions regarding our return and exchange policies.

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All Items over 150lbs will be subject to an oversized shipping rate increase. All orders over 150lbs will have additional shipping added to the total upon completion of shipping. For exact quotes on heavy items, please email us at service@seacorals.com .

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Sea Corals, and our parent company, ASC Designs, has a strict no share policy regarding all information you share with our company. All credit card information comes over a secure server and is destroyed within 30 days of the completion of the order. Other personal information such as addresses & phone numbers are kept on file only so we can keep track of your order. This information is never shared.  Back to top

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Need an alphabetical list of the products on our site. Please click HERE to be sent to our index page. Back to top

Don't worry, we can get you there. Just click HERE for a direct route to our Lighting and Furniture store. Back to top

Product Information

Both natural and artificial coral comes ready to go into an aquarium, just rinse the coral under tap water to remove any dust or dirt it may have picked up in shipping. Bases can be buried in your substrate for a natural look and added stability. Back to top

Our dyed coral has been used in aquariums for over 30 years and has proven to be safe in even the most delicate environments. The unique dye used on this coral is extremely bright, yet absolutely non-toxic to aquatic environments. Coral eating fish (parrotfish, etc.) have been known to eat the dyed coral with no ill effects. Mini-reef and even nano-reef tanks are excellent candidates for dyed coral and even delicate inverts are safe.

The dye has the added benefit of not sealing the coral. This means that you will still see all the original detail such as polyp holes and small ridges and bumps. Back to top

Please use this chart for hints on coral selection.

Type of Inhabitant

Example

Best coral types

     
Top Dwelling / Perching Species Gouramis, Archer Fish, Lionfish, Frogfish Tall Brown Stem, Staghorn, Plate, Sea Fans & Whips
Middle Dwelling Species, Fast Swimmers Grammas, Damsel and Clownfish, Angels, Butterflyfish, African Cichlids Compact pieces of Brown Stem, Cats Paw, Slipper, Staghorn, Finger, Branch, Sea whips & fans.
Middle Dwelling Species, Slow Swimmers Hawkfish, Lionfish, Large Cichlids, Puffers, Batfish Almost any coral type
Bottom Dwelling Species, Fast Swimmers Groupers, Grammas, Damsels, Rockfish, Eels, Tetras Brown stem, Cats Paw, Slipper, Plate, Finger, Birds Nest
Bottom Dwelling Species, Slow Swimmers Blennies, Gobies, Seahorses, Loaches, Catfish Brown Stem, Cats Paw, Slipper, Finger, Lettuce, Birds Nest
Crustaceans Lobsters, Crabs, Shrimp Plate, Slipper, Brown Stem, Cats Paw
Low PH Fish <freshwater only> Discus, Cardinal Tetras, delicate Catfish Artificial Corals, preferably softer corals with no points or sharp edges.
Delicate Fish and constant swim animals Oranda and Bubbleye Goldfish, Discus, Sharks Artificial coral is the only choice for delicate animals. Coral is not recommended in a shark tank due to the swimming space it takes up. Back to top

With proper care, our dyed coral will keep its stunning color for 3-5 years. Coral under heavy light, or that requires more frequent cleanings will fade faster but should still give you many years of color. Faded coral can be sent back to use to be repainted for a nominal charge. Need more information on getting your coral re-dyed? Please contact us for more information. Back to top

Algae, micro-bacteria, and other organisms will grow and flourish on both dyed and natural coral. Both types can be easily cleaned with a light bleach solution. Add 1/4 of a cup of bleach to an almost filled 5 gallon bucket. Soak the coral overnight and remove. Dump the water in the bucket and refill with clean tap water. Use a quality water conditioner such as Prime or Amquel, and add 4 times the normal dosage to the bucket. Spray down the coral and let it soak in the conditioned water for a few hours. It should now be ready to go into the tank. If you are unsure, or if you can still smell bleach or chlorine, just refill the bucket again with tap water and add 4 times the conditioner and re-soak. Back to top

Natural coral is safe in a freshwater aquarium, although some maintenance is required. Coral in a freshwater aquarium will slowly raise the PH of your tank. The rate this occurs depends on the size of your tank and how much coral you have. Monitoring of your PH will allow you to easily keep this under control. Some fish, such as African Cichlids, like a high PH and adding coral is beneficial to their survival. Coral can also help cure a tank with a high organic load and a low PH. Another added bonus for freshwater is the trace elements that coral leaches out. Back to top

An excellent choice of decor for a saltwater tank. Adds a natural shape your fish will recognize and enjoy. The trace elements that are released are a bonus to your inhabitants. Natural hiding places abound, and your saltwater fish will recognize these natural homes and show brighter, happy colors. Back to top

An excellent way to add some natural beauty without having to take care of yet another living thing. Natural coral fits into the environment flawlessly. Great for seahorses as a place for them to wrap around. Back to top

Dyed coral is safe in a freshwater aquarium, although some maintenance is required. Coral in a freshwater aquarium will slowly raise the PH of your tank. The rate this occurs depends on the size of your tank and how much coral you have. The dye will slow this process down as compared to Un-dyed Coral.

 Monitoring of your PH will allow you to easily keep this under control. Some fish, such as African Cichlids, like a high PH and adding coral is beneficial to their survival. Coral can also help cure a tank with a high organic load that causes low PH (Oscar tanks especially). Another added bonus for freshwater is the trace elements that coral leaches out. Back to top

An excellent choice of decor for a saltwater tank. Adds a natural shape your fish will recognize and enjoy. The trace elements that are released are a bonus to your inhabitants. Natural hiding places abound, and your saltwater fish will recognize these natural homes and show brighter, happy colors. Speaking of brighter colors, the brilliant color of our dyed coral really makes a drab aquarium look beautiful. Back to top

An excellent way to add some natural beauty without having to take care of yet another living thing. Dyed coral adds brilliant color and a new, natural place for your fish to go. Great for seahorses as a place for them to wrap around. Also becomes a favored cleaning spot for cleaner shrimp over a piece of rock. Dyed coral is perfectly safe for even the most delicate environment. Back to top

We can order custom pieces of coral, we only need you to tell us what you want. From extra large sizes of our coral, to unique color patterns and mixes. Please E-mail us your needs and we will get back to you with a quote. Back to top

Yes, we offer a full exchange policy on any piece of coral we send. Please note that every piece of coral does look different, and we will do our best to match up your piece. If you are unhappy with your piece, please E-mail us for return information. As soon as we receive the piece, we will ship out your new piece, or we can give you credit towards anything else in our store minus a 10% restocking fee. Back to top

Need help on deciding which type of filter would be best for your aquarium, or do you just need some insight on how a filter works on an aquarium? Please use our guide below for basic filter information, or you can E-mail us for specific filter information.

  Canister 
Filters

Canister filters are excellent filters for the majority of aquariums. Many offer the ability to interchange your filtration media, allowing complete customization of your aquariums filtration needs. They work by bringing water out of the aquarium and into a pressurized "canister". The water is either pushed or pulled through multiple layers of filtration and then returned to the aquarium. This efficient design means less water gets unfiltered due to bypass. They are also useful in powering a UV sterilizer or other accessory. The main downfall of canister filters is low biological activity (not including Eheim wet/dry canisters). Since the units have to be cleaned, and most of your filtration media is changed regularly, most bacteria is periodically purged from them.

Freshwater - Canister filters are perfect for freshwater aquariums. On a small to medium aquarium, one canister such as the Magnum series should be all the filtration needed. On larger aquariums, a modular canister system such as the lifeguard would be excellent and provide crystal clear water.

Saltwater - Canisters make a great part of a saltwater filter system, but a secondary biological unit is usually required. Without a good biological bed filter, a saltwater aquarium will frequently experience high nitrite and ammonia problems, and a much shorter inhabitant life expectancy. Adding an Undergravel or bio-wheel filter will fulfill this necessity. Canisters are also excellent as a secondary filter and spot cleaner on a wet/dry. The exception to this rule is the Eheim Wet/Dry Canister filters that are excellent as a complete filtration solution for marine aquariums.

Mini-Reef - Canisters work great with mini-reef systems, but care is needed in picking the chemical media as some will leech out needed trace elements. The Eheim wet/dry filters are excellent for use in a small to medium sized reef aquarium. Standard canister filters are better for spot cleaning or specialized media containment.

Hang
on
Tank

Hang on tank filters offer a good compromise between economical operation and high grade filtration. They work similar in fashion to canister filters but are usually not pressurized (the HOT magnum is a canister filter and is pressurized). Water is pumped into a box on the back of the tank and then allowed to run through a cartridge, or in the Magnum, forced through a set of media. The water is then returned to the aquarium.  As a low cost alternative for canister and wet/dry filters, they do have limitations. Water by-pass can (and does) occur with cartridge filters, and the media selection that can be used is fairly low. Flow rates are low and highly variable depending on how clean the system is. On a high note, hang on tank filters are highly versatile, and very easy to maintain.

Freshwater - Perfect as a low cost filter for freshwater. All but the Skilter would make an excellent choice. The Emperor series is an excellent filtration system for small to medium freshwater tanks and offers complete mechanical, chemical, and even biological filtration.

Saltwater - Hang on back filters are great as part of a complete filter system. The emperor is a decent filter for a small to medium saltwater aquarium. Other hang on tank filters are not as efficient and low bio-activity combined with water by-pass could be costly in aquarium life. Combined with a proper bio-active filter such as a wet/dry, sand filter, or Undergravel, a hang on tank filter can become a valuable addition.

Mini-Reef - Good as a spot filter or secondary filter unit, hang on tank filters do not offer the flexibility needed for a true mini-reef. Not recommended.

 Wet
Dry

Wet/dry filters are some of the highest grade filters available on the market today. Working on the same principal as an undergravel filter, water is passed across colonies of bacteria, which breakdown harmful ammonia and nitrite. Water is then put into a sump area. The addition of a sump to an aquarium allows you to place high-end protein skimmers, UV sterilizers, and much more to your tank easily. A wet/dry filter is an absolute must for delicate fish in fresh or saltwater. It is recommended that a minimum of gravel be used in a wet/dry filter aquarium. A thick layer of gravel will hold more dirt and require more maintenance. A properly setup aquarium with a wet/dry has very low maintenance and high inhabitant life expectancy.

Freshwater - At the top of the chain for freshwater is a wet/dry. Healthy fish, cleaner tanks, and more time between cleanings are what this filter will offer the average freshwater aquarium. Less gravel means few gravel cleanings. Not recommended for very dirty fish, such as Oscars because of the high-organic content they release.

Saltwater - Excellent for saltwater as well. Fish will display more natural, vivid colors and stay healthier. Less gravel, and no Undergravel to hold dirt. A good carbon filter for spot cleaning is helpful. Less water changes in saltwater means less maintenance and less shock to your inhabitants.

Mini-Reef - Good with proper care, more useful for the sump it creates than for filtration in a proper mini-reef. Most bio activity should be found in your live rock. A wet/dry can be an integral part of a mini-reef system when used correctly. A protein skimmer in the sump for a mini-reef is a must, as is a good de-nitrification system. With these items in place, water chemistry can be stable which will help your live coral to grow and thrive.

Denitraters An excellent addition to any saltwater aquarium. Denitrators are split off of a sump or Powerhead pump and have water slowly trickle through a bio-matrix. Bacteria remove the Nitrates directly from the water as a food source. Essential part of any mini-reef or high-end saltwater aquarium. Denitrators work very slowly, water is set by drips per minute. Because of this, a denitrator should be part of a system fairly early on, but after the new tank "cycle". If a denitrator is used during this new tank period (usually anywhere from 1-6 weeks), the tank may not cycle correctly, and this will cause problems with water chemistry in the future. Added after a cycle, denitrators will keep nitrates low. This means less water changes, less overall maintenance and healthier inhabitants. Nitrates are poisonous to most live corals and inverts and, if they get high enough, can be fatal to many fish. Back to top

Reverse osmosis filters are attached to a tap water system in your home. The R/O filter cleans your tap water, removing most harmful metals, toxins and chemicals from your water, giving you crystal clear, lab grade water. Not only is the water that an R/O produces perfect for drinking water, but also as a basis for the atmosphere your fish will live in.

R/O water used in a freshwater environment can be beneficial, but there are downsides. The water that an R/O produces is almost truly pure. This means that there are no trace elements, salts, etc. These trace amounts of minerals and salts are needed for healthy fish and will need to be added to the water before use. Fish that are kept in R/O water that does not have the needed added elements will be more prone to disease and sudden unexplained deaths. The good news is that almost all pet stores carry inexpensive bottled elements that can be added. When freshwater fish are kept in R/O water with the added elements, life expectancy goes up, water changes are needed slightly less frequently, and fish become more disease resistant. This will also sometimes help picky eating fish regain their appetite.

R/O water in a salt or reef environment carries the same penalties as above, but the fix is much more simple. When you do your normal water changes, you are adding trace elements into the R/O water when you mix the salt in. Doing normal, scheduled water changes on your aquarium will continually replenish the trace elements that your inhabitants leach out. In a reef environment, adding the trace elements back into the water, especially calcium, iodine, strontium, molybdenum and other required elements are a must. Back to top

A protein skimmer in freshwater is useless. Protein skimming requires saltwater to allow the foaming process to occur. Brackish water aquariums will obtain some success from a protein skimmer depending on how high the specific gravity of the water . If the specific gravity is below 1.015, a protein skimmer will not work well.

In a saltwater, fish only tank, a protein skimmer is a huge bonus. In the simplest forms, a protein skimmer pulls organic proteins, such as fish urine, directly out of the water. Unlike carbon, where the protein is caught but still in the stream of water, protein skimming removes this protein from the water and places it in a collection cup so that it can be removed from the aquarium. Many hobbyists ONLY use protein skimming for filtration, with live rock as the basis for their bacteria bed. Although this works well in a reef environment, the addition of a wet/dry or other bio-bed filter is a better choice for a fish only tank. A protein skimmer will always give a tank healthier fish and should never be left out of a well planned system.

In a reef environment, a protein skimmer is a must. Coral will be healthier, happier and fuller than ever with a protein skimming unit. Live rock will grow polyps faster, and crustaceans will grow and shed faster. This may be the single most important unit to consider when setting up a reef.

Please note that during the cycle period of a saltwater fish tank (also known as New Tank Syndrome) a protein skimmer should be turned off to allow the correct growth of bacteria. Back to top

An ultraviolet sterilizer is a tube with a UV bulb in the center. Water is passed either directly across the bulb, or across a quartz sleeve that protects the bulb. Disease causing bacteria, viruses, algae, fungi, and protozoa are all found in not only aquarium water, but also in tap water. UV destroys or disables these different pathogens by exposing them to a high dose of ultraviolet radiation.

Very beneficial in a freshwater tank for breeding fish. A UV sterilizer can help keep fungi off of eggs and baby fish. It  helps the stressed mother from becoming stricken with disease in her weakened state.

In a saltwater and reef type environment, UV sterilization makes sense, especially considering the low cost when compared to the price of livestock. A few fish protected from disease usually pays for the UV system.

Please remember that complete sterilization of an aquarium is neither desirable or possible. Some bacteria are needed to break down ammonia, others are beneficial to your fish or coral. In a reef environment, UV sterilization can leach out some trace elements needed by your coral. Trace elements and additives should be added as needed, and the UV sterilizer should be turned off for a few hours after adding these chemicals.

Water movement is extremely important in determining the size of your UV. A rough scale to follow is 10-15 gallons per hour per watt of UV light in a fishtank, 15-25 gallons per hour per watt in a pond.

Example: A 15 watt UV sterilizer should have a flow rate between 150-225 GPH in a fishtank and 225-375 GPH in a pond. Back to top

Another way to remove pathogens from your aquarium water is to introduce an ozone generator into the system. It oxidizes not only living pathogens, but organic pollutants. A benefit of ozone is that it systematically reduces dissolved organic compounds in the water stream. This has the effect of boosting the natural filtration of your substrate and bio-bed filters. Ozone will increase the ability of protein skimmers foam production. This translates to an overall filtration system increase and sterilization.

Ozone gas is produced within the generator by a small spark that is created within a controlled chamber of air. High humidity is detrimental to an ozone generator and an air drier may be needed.

Ozone does have some detrimental side effects and these must be carefully monitored. Ozone gas is highly corrosive, especially towards plastics and rubber, and all items that come in contact with ozone must be ozone safe. Ozone is usually injected through a protein skimming unit. The tubing used and the skimmer itself must be approved for ozone use, and a carbon filter on the top of the protein skimmer is recommended to strip off residual ozone escaping from the water. Ozone should not be allowed to enter your aquarium as it can kill almost any fish or invert, so a carbon filter is recommended in-line of the return water. Ozone is also unsafe for a human to breathe.

Picking the correct generator is fairly easy. 1Mg/h per gallon is sufficient. Going larger than this formula is easily correctable, just dial in a lower number. Back to top

 

Saltwater Mini / Nano / Micro reefs, and freshwater tanks with live plants require specialized lighting for the health of your inhabitants. The following information should provide insight on the most common lighting issues. Please note that WPG means Watts Per Gallon

Freshwater Fish Tank

The most inexpensive lighting system will usually work well enough to illuminate your tank and pets. The downfall is that you miss out on the enhanced colors and textures that a high-grade lighting system will show. Neon tetras are a perfect example. They dimly glow under a standard aquarium fluorescent bulb. In comparison, they almost appear to have a neon bulb on their side when viewed under a PowerCompact lighting system with actinic.

Conclusion - Any light will work, but for the best colors, algae and live plant growth, and overall tank appearance, a 1-2 watt per gallon system should be used that includes at least some actinic spectrum.

Freshwater Live Plant Tank

A live freshwater plant aquarium requires a considerable amount of light so that the plants can properly synthesize chlorophyll. Without this light, live plants will slowly yellow and dye. A good rule to follow is 2-3 Watts Per Gallon for average height aquariums (under 24" in height) and 3-4 WPG for tall tanks (25" to 36" in height). Taller tanks than 36" may have special lighting requirements, please E-Mail us regarding any questions on tall tank lighting.

Conclusion - 2-4 WPG is essential for a tank of this type. Sun and actinic bulbs are the most common bulbs used in this type of environment. A full spectrum, standard aquarium bulb (pink type) should be put in as well for good color reproduction. Metal halide works well, has the added bonus of taking up a small space yet putting out a large amount of watts, but can overheat your tank. Powercompacts or HO fluorescents are usually the best way to go.

Saltwater Fish Tank

For fish only saltwater aquariums, lighting is not as important, but can easily effect the way a tank looks, and how well it stands out in a room. 1 WPG is usually a good start and will illuminate the tank sufficiently. Try to pick out a spectrum that will highlight the primary colors of your fish and decor. If you have a large amount of blue in your aquarium, try to pick out a system with Actinic or low spectrum output. Reds and Oranges look better in a high spectrum, Sun or Grow-lux bulb.

Conclusion - A commonly overlooked piece of equipment in a saltwater aquarium system. Although not necessary for many creatures, a good system will enhance the colors of the already bright shades many marine fish possess. In addition, better lighting enhances algae and micro-biological growths that are beneficial to a healthy environment. A good HO system would be a huge upgrade over the standard 1-2 bulb systems many tanks come with standard.

Saltwater System - Partial Reef

Ahh, the quasi-reef. The hardest tank to successfully keep and maintain. A quasi-reef is a tank that starts out fish only. Sits for a year or two in this mode, and then has corals, anemones, or other reef inhabitants added to it. Usually both the lighting system and the filtration system is for a fish only tank. So an upgrade is needed. The best way to figure out lighting for this type of aquarium is to figure out which way the tank is going. If the tank is being converted over into a true reef tank, then the answer is simple, get reef quality lights. If the tank is going to have mainly fish and just the occasional reef inhabitant ( a hardy coral such as a green star polyp perhaps ), then 1-2 watts per gallon should do the trick. Spectrum is tricky and should be based upon what animals you plan on keeping.

Conclusion - The largest hurdle to overcome on this tank type is sticking to the plan. If you decide that your fishtank is becoming boring, but you do not want to completely retrofit your tank to support a reef system, make sure you decide on exactly what type of animals you plan on keeping, and get the best possible light based on that. If you stick to the plan, and follow some basic guidelines, your tank will handle the new additions flawlessly and add that new dimension your aquarium needed.

Saltwater Reef System

For a Reef environment, lighting can easily mean the difference between success and failure. Almost all live coral, anemones, and thousands of other reef inhabitants have a living algae inside of them, and require a symbiotic relationship with this algae. The algae helps coral to convert the food they ingest into a useable form. If the algae dies, your coral will basically starve to death. A good rule of thumb with Reefs is a minimum of 3-4 WPG 8-10 hours per day. More than 8-10 hours may allow an over-growth of hair and slime algaes. Tanks taller than 30" should go to a 4-5 WPG table.

Spectrum in a reef aquarium is more complex than in other tanks and needs to be carefully thought out. Having 200 watts of Sun bulbs on a 55 gallon would add enough light, but the light would not be fully useable by the algae inside the coral because of the spectrum. Low-end spectral light is usually added to the aquarium with the addition of Actinic fluorescent bulbs. A good sun or 10,000k  bulb will add brightness and high end spectrum lighting. There are also 50/50 bulbs that add both low and high spectrum. A good balance is necessary for the optimum health of your corals.

Conclusion - 3-5 watts per gallon is a must for a proper reef environment. Spectrum should be determined based on what creatures you plan on keeping, but figure for a good balance of high, mid, and low spectrum lights. Metal Halide is used more than any other type on a reef tank, yet its downfalls ( high heat, ventilation issues, burns ) and high cost make fluorescents a more workable solution. Powercompacts rule the fluorescent lighting industry right now, and they should be the first place you check.

There is one more item of concern regarding lights that we receive numerous questions about. "How long should the light be left on".

 The simple answer is 8-10 hours. Unfortunately the simple answer is not always the best one. The easiest way to tell is by watching your algae growth. If the algae is growing faster than you or your snails, plecos, and angelfish can remove it, cut back on the light. If your algae growth is almost at a standstill, add another hour of light and wait a week. Keep trying till you get a fairly slow, regular algae growth. 

A timer for your lights is an absolute must have. It has been proven that fish with a regular light cycle will be healthier and happier, show better colors, and eat more often. Back to top

Heaters are an integral part of the health of your aquarium inhabitants. A common misconception among aquarium hobbyist is that a heater is only there to keep your water above a certain temperature. This is of course true, but a heater's primary purpose is to keep your aquarium temperature stable. Aquarium temperature flux is the second most common way that fish get diseases. White Spot Disease (Ich) is a parasitic infection that most fish carry, in a dormant form. When a fish becomes stressed, Ich attacks the fish and uses its body as a breeding platform for new Ich spores. It only takes 2 degrees of flux per day for the average freshwater fish to become stressed. So you can see how important water temperature stability can be. A heater allows you to dial in a temperature that is 1 degree warmer than the highest temperature your tank becomes each day. By doing this, your tank never gets warmer than where the heater keeps it at, and this means no flux in temperature.

Chillers do the same as a heater, just in the opposite fashion. High-end pumps and lights on the market today,  for a fish or reef tank can easily grow too warm for optimum living conditions. A chiller can chill your water substantially (some down to 55 degrees). For specialty aquariums dealing with cool or cold water species (goldfish, many types of saltwater inhabitants.), a chiller is considered a must. Most importantly on larger reef systems with Metal Halide lighting. Back to top

Aquarium pumps are an integral part of almost any aquarium. i.e. Air pumps for running a protein skimmer unit, ozonizer, or Undergravel filter, and water pumps for running your wet/dry or UV sterilizer

Air pumps come in almost all shapes and sizes, and we carry sizes that run from 1 single 2.5 gallon tank, to pumps that would push over 50 2.5 gallon tanks. Although we only show a few on our website, please feel free to E-mail us if you wish to inquire about a specialty pump.

Water pumps come in hundreds of sizes, and we carry a good portion of them. Water pumps can, and will add heat to an aquarium. Size does matter, and having the largest pump is usually not the best idea. Always make sure to balance your flow rate needs with the heat of your tank. For example, a Little Giant 2-MD-SC will add up to three degrees to the average 55 gallon aquarium. This heat can be offset somewhat by making sure there is sufficient water movement at the surface of the aquarium. Water movement can be the difference of up to two degrees. Back to top

 

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